HOW TO MAKE A BASQUE CORSET DRESS WITH BONING.
N/B we used a different neckline for this illustrations.
Picture source: Internet.
*pattern drafting tools(optional)
*boning (sewable boning)
*Bust Point (BP)
* Under Bust(UB)
*Under bust round.
1.Place your pattern paper on fold and you may need to add an additional paper to the length in case yours can’t carry the length of your measurement.
2. Place all your vertical measurements from the shoulder to the full length of the dress according to your client desired length indicating your bust point, under bust,waistline, hipline and the full length.
3. Mark out your bust span measurement divided by 2 plus half inch seam allowance.
4. Measure and take in the darts. I used a wider dart at the UB because I wanted cups with a better lift. Then at the BP go up by 1″ and come down by 1″. Use half inch for client’s with bust size of 36 downwards. Take in your darts as seen in the illustrations below.
5. Determine your bust radius. This is the distance between the BP and the UB. And mark the BR(Bust radius) round in a circular manner as seen in the illustrations.
6. For the wideness of the center separating the cups,mark half inch from the center fold, you can use 0.75″ for big or plus sizes but half inch is better so your cups won’t be too far apart.
7. Mark 1″ from the side of the BR because the breast is fuller by the sides and then form the cups as seen in the illustrations.
8. Extend the dart line to the upper part of the cups and take in the darts for the tightening of the upper part of the cups..
9.For the down part of the dart go up by 2″ from the hipline to form the darts
10. For the basque effect, come down from the waistline by 3-4″. and connect it to the side seam as seen in the illustrations.
11. Cut out the patterns and add all your seam allowance when cutting on the fabric.
12. For the boning channels, take out the mid part of the dress,that’s from the upper bust line to where the Basque stops, draw your boning lines depending on how many boning lines you want and cut out. Add seam allowance to the boning patterns when cutting on fabric.
Illustration by Opus Tamuno Ranah
Feel free to ask all your questions